Bandhani Art

 Bandhani term is derived from the Sanskrit word root bandh which means to bind or to tie thus Bandhani is a type of tie-dye art .The technique involves dyeing a fabric which is tied tightly with a thread at several points,there is a huge variety of patterns like Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari and so forth depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. 

The main colour used in Bandhani making are yellow, red, blue, green and black. Each colour has specific traditional cultural meaning. 

 

HISTORY:

Earliest evidence of Bandhani dates back to Indus Valley Civilization where dyeing was done as early as 4000 B.C. The earliest example of the most prevalent Bandhani  can be seen in the 6th century paintings depicting the life of Buddha found on the wall of Cave 1 at Ajanta. 

The first Bandhani saree was worn at the time of Bana Bhatt's arshacharita in a royal marriage . It was believed that wearing a Bandhani saree can bring good future to a bride.

In India, Bandhani work was started by the Khatri community of Gujarat and Rajasthan. towns like Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jamnagar are well known for the centers that produce famous Bandhej or bandhani odhnis, sarees, and turbans.  

PROCESS OF MAKING BANDHANI:

The fabric is selected and design patterns is obtained  by tracing the design with a color on the punched design.The designed fabric is given to the bandhani artists who ties knots on the designs. After that two equipment a thimble ring and a fine thin small tube are used in doing bandhani . Then the knotted fiber is sent for dying process where naphthol dyes are used. The dyed fabric is washed , dried and  knots is untied. Finally it reveals its color and the desired design pattern is acquired.

DETAILED PROCESS:

1) Making Process :The fabric is selected and sorted. The fabric is folded horizontally half and straight stitch or hemming is made at the ends. The design pattern on the tracing butter sheet is traced with the fugitive blue color, which is in continues design pattern where only half a fabric is marked and  the other half gets the design. The shoe brush is used in brushing the fugitive color over the tracing sheet to acquire the design on the fabric. Previously the designs were marked with imprints of wooden blocks and threads. In tracing butter sheet the design is drawn and it is punched in a manner with the tiny dots in a sequence which produces the design once the color is brushed on the sheet. After the fugitive color has dried the fabric is sent to the Bandhani artist who is usually a woman who ties the knots in their leisure time.

2) Tying Process :The water resistible threads like nylon, synthetic are used in order to avoid the dye color absorbent into the fabric by tying the knots. It takes around a week to finish tying knots for one scarf. There are several types of designs like Scatter dots, Circum Bandhani and Barthi Bandhani. 

Scatter dots are the general and common designs made in amid of the fabric which brings a beautiful pattern of dots spread across the borders of the cloth. Circum Bandhani is a continues flow of designs and Barthi Bandhani is a lot of knots made closure to each other in order to obtain intricate designs. The pointed thimble ring is worn on the finger ring of the left hand which helps in protruding the fabric which later is winded with a thread tightly obtaining a knot. With the help of a fine thin small tube locally called Nalli or bhungri is held with right hand where the thread has passed through that tube which, in later it is winded towards the protruded cloth and knotted. Apart from this there are several traditional patterns in Bandhani  like :

•  Dungar Shahi - the mountain form, 
• Chaubasi - knots in group of four,
•  Tikunthi – knots in group of three, 
• Satbandi – in groups of seven, 
• Ekdali – a simple dot, 
• Boond – a small dot with a dark centre,
•  Kodi – a tear drop shaped like, 
• Leheriya – wavy patterns and
•  Laddu Jalebi – the design is in the swirling form. 

After completely tying the knots on the design, the fabric is thoroughly washed to remove the fugitive color print and it is sent for dying process.

 3) Dying Process:In dying process involves several techniques like direct dyes, Vat dyes, Naphthol dyes and Acid dyes. Acid dyes are more efficient and often used for silk material whereas for cotton naphthol dyes and vat dyes are used. 

The knotted fabric is dipped in naphthol solution with Salt, Formaldehyde, and caustic soda for about five minutes and then it is rinsed with clean water, squeezed and dried. After the fabric is semi dried it is dipped into diazotization base component where the fabric obtains its required color. Which in later is rinsed, washed and dried with clean water to remove the extra dye from the fabric.

After the dying is complete the fabric is washed in clean water and machine dried. And it is hang for drying in air. Once the fabric is completely dry the knots are removed by pulling the fabric tightly which brings the white patches made out of tying.  The tied knots of fabric help in avoiding the color to enter thus it retains its own color. The designs obtained can come in multi colors as per the requirement. Chemical dyes are more preferable now a days because the color is acquired bright and colorful.

 TYPES OF BANDHANI PATTERNS :

A single Bandhani dot is called as Ek Dali or Bundi, four are called as Chaubundi and seven are called as Satbundi. Small dots with darker centres are called as Boond, while tear-drop shaped dots are called as Kodi. Patterns or circles appearing in clusters of three are called as Trikunti, while groups of four are called as Chaubasi, and seven are called as Satbandi. Elaborate motifs and designs of leaves, flowers, trees, human figurines are made, by repeating Bandhani dots and patterns. Dungar Shahi (mountain pattern), Laddu Jalebi (Indian sweetmeats) and Leheriya (waves) are other popular Bandhani patterns.

 

 

FABRICS USED IN BANDHANI :

Traditionally cottons were used to create Bandhani. The contemporary artisans, given the changing preferences, and start work on fine georgettes, art silks, silk-cotton ,cotton silk blends, viscose and cotton variants. Pure Venkatigiri cotton from Andhra Pradesh, is used to create traditional Gharcholas. Georgettes with pure Banarasi borders are used to make vibrant and colourful  Jhankaar Bandhanis.

 THE CULTURAL CONNECTS OF BANDHANI:

Bandhani is considered as very auspicious, especially in Rajasthan and Gujarat. From weddings to births, Bandhani finds a sacred association everywhere. It is said that wearing Bandhani Sarees invites good luck. There was a time when all brides in Western India wore Wedding Sarees and Lehengas decorated with fine Bandhani. In Rajasthan, the varying Bandhani patterns and colours of the turbans worn by menfolk indicate their castes and communities. Bandhani is also used to convey life stages. While red represents marriage, yellow signifies motherhood and green signifies fertility.

SOME FACTS ABOUT BANDHANI:

• Bandhani art is one of the oldest and the simplest fabric beautification carried out mainly in the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat.
  
• The Hindi word of “Bandhan” which means “tying” is the origination towards the name of “Bandhani”.
• The craftsmen can be easily recognized with their little finger nail growth. It helps them to easily lift the cloth for tying. Some have a metal ring with an edgy point design in them. These are the qualities of the Rajasthan artisans but the Gujarati workers don’t use these techniques to work.
• The major color schemes used are the yellow, red, green and black and the colors are mostly bright, deep and dark.
• The colors have special significances such as red is the symbol of marriage, saffron is the color of divinity, yellow stands for the spring season of the new start and finally black and maroon are for mourning.
• The dyes are mostly made of natural ingredients such as leaves, roots, and flowers.
• The popular design patterns used are the dots, squares, waves, and stripes. The designs are named such as “Ekdali” (single knot), Trikunti (three knots), Chaubandi (four knots), Dungar shahi (mountain pattern), Boond (small dot with a dark centre), kodi (tear drop shape), laddu jalebi (round Indian sweets) and leheriya (waves).
• The costing is decided according to the number of tie-ups in the fabric.
• The most intricate design in a saree will consist of approximately 75,000 dots or tie-ups.
• The colors of the fabric have the tendency to leak when washed, so it is advisable to do a dry cleaning initially and the strength and vibrancy of bandhani are lost if they are ironed on high heat setting, so make sure the heat level is low and put a muslin cloth over it before ironing.
• The bandhani material is folded twisted, with knotting. The folds are to be pulled out so that the knots are opened.
• Each area, tribe, and caste has their particular specialty of designs, moreover, the handicraft of bandhani and patola are popular examples of the Indian dyeing art .

Today most Bandhani making centers are situated in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Sindh, Punjab region and in Tamil Nadu where it’s known as Sungudi.  Bandhani is also known as Bandhej, Bandhni, Piliya, and Chungidi.

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